Future Beauty: 30 Years of Japanese Fashion........ @ The Barbican

As part of furthering my knowledge and investigating other influences in fashion I decided to visit an exhibition at the Barbican in London.



This exhibition is the first European exhibition to comprehensively survey avant-garde Japanese fashion from the 1980s to now.
Designers Issey Miyake, Rei Kawakubo and Yohji Yamamoto have had an enormous impact on the world’s couture in the late 20th Century. Their techniques challenged Western notions of beauty and redefined previously established notions of fashion.


“The tight silhouettes of Western couture were jettisoned into new fluid shapes [by Miyake, Kawakubo and Yamamoto],” Kate Bush, head of art galleries at the Barbican, said.
“Out went the magnificent ornament and extravagant techniques of the post-war tradition and in came a stark, monochrome palette and an entirely new decorative language.”
The new exhibition, which is curated by fashion historian Akiko Fukai, explores the work of these three designers in relation to Japanese art, culture and costume history.



I really enjoyed this exhibition as it visually communicated the notably brilliant designs, and the way in which they were influenced to create these pieces.

The garments were free standing within the exhibition so you were able to get quite up close and personal to inspect the sheer skill and high levels of workmanship it had taken to create these fabulous garments. I loved the way that they have so successfully manipulated different fabrics to create such fantastic and avant-garde designs, with such inventive construction.

Some of the designs were of course very out there and wacky but still had undertaken so much skill to create them. The exhibition showed the designers progression from there past works up to their current pieces.



PPD Progression

Ppd / Blog

So for this module I need to produce both this blog and a file documnting the following;


  • A Blog
  • CV 2 or 3 works in process discussing each draft and development
  • Review an exhibition
  • Read and review a recent Publication
  • Interview someone in the industry
  • Analyse my future potential Uni or Work what are my options ???
At the point of starting this module I think I have an overall idea of which direction I want to head in, first port of call is going to be the dreaded UCAS application !!!!!

I personally hate having to write anything about myself but it would seem practice makes perrfect. I decided to look back at what I wrote in my first personal statement. I came up with a list of how I felt I had progressed from then so to reflect who I now have become, and I can safely say after reading through my personal statement from 2008 there was a lot of room for improvement.

I also need to create a more appropriate CV and visual CV to enhance my ability in getting future jobs or works experience. I need to make this more fashion related and re look at what needs to be included. I had a meeting with Clare to discuss this and she gave me some good examples to look at, for me to consider layout and content.

A good hint I was given, which I would definately recommend is too sign up for Google alerts. It allows you to get alerts, and recieve all the up to date information on any specific topic. So helpful whether you want to track a trend, business or brand.


FInal Major Project and the Finale...



Final project.......

So I've been given free reign on this one and I can't say I'm enjoying it. I have no direction yet and I'm actually considering taking inspiration from an old TV series which isn't the best idea, but I really enjoyed watching it and living in the past for 30 mins a week ........

So I've decided to go with the theme 'Make Do and Mend'......which direction precisely I'm unsure of but I'm going to brainstorm some ideas and hopefully will be able to clear up a bit of direction in my mind. I just feel that the current economic climate is affecting todays fashion, looking back to the days of war and rations it really sprung a flood of ideas for me to start with.

I need too collect a range of atmospheric images detailing silhouette colour and detail.

Brainstorm - Waste not want not ethos??, 40's home interiors, draping netting lace curtains and Venetian blinds, a modern take in vintage 1940's interior, recycling, ration books, stockings, photography V & A 40's exhibition.


Research


Research



The way I want to look at this, is going to be in more of an organised manner so I can try to implement some of the things I've picked up along the way and identified as my weaknesses throughout this year.




So this is going to be the running order of how hopefully things will be done:

Theme 1940's Make Do and Mend.......


A5 sketchbook including the following;


  • Silhouettes and shape
  • Home interiors
  • Muse - who is she?
  • Colour or maybe not so much colour
  • Adverts and fonts
  • Shop report
  • Fabric sourcing and other components

Portfolio


  • 30 D/D flats and figures.
  • 2 Final Collection - final presentation of final ideas.
  • 2 Shop Report.
  • 2 Muse Board.
  • 2 Mood Board - documenting the best aspects of my research and sketchbook.
AD205 Final Major Project
Project Proposal

For my final major project I plan too test my previous experiences, and enhance the skills I have developed throughout the course so far. My concept will be too look at the philosophy of make do and mend and look at all appropriate contextual references, and the culture of altering old clothes too new as in the 1940’s. In the current economic climate the recession causes people to cut back on there usual spending habits and invest in more economical pieces, or even like they did in times of the war recycled there belongings into new things. I will look at the silhouettes of the 1940’s and aim to create a collection made with vintage and recycled tablecloths and trims. The designs will be very clean cut and uncluttered and be aimed to the high end of the high street as a more affordable collection of vintage pieces.

To be able to achieve this I will need to investigate and research 1940’s post war fashions, the make do and mend philosophy, and investigate the kinds of fabrics I will be able to source, and there suitability when creating my garments. I hope to successfully create a capsule collection with the key pieces from my final collection. I need to ensure that I manage my time effectively so I can achieve a high level work appropriate to my current skill set.


Sketchbook and Research - 

Sketchbook and Research Pages







Fabric Sourcing File - Documenting possible fabrics and there uses.

Mood Boards in Portfolio

Mood Board

Mood Board

Design Development

Design Development 

Final Boards in Portfolio

Final Board


Vintage Tablecloths Sourced From Ebay.....



My Shirt in the making.....






Project Evaluation

Throughout this project I have been able to utilise all of my skills that I have built over the last 2 years. My initial design idea was too create a collection influenced by the 1940’s and in particular the ‘Make do and Mend’ philosophy. I feel that overall I have achieved this really well and feel that the work I have produced is superior to all my previous works. I decided to set myself the task of improving my layout and presentation techniques throughout this project. I looked at several references and the likes of Textile View magazine, to gain insight on how I would be able to best achieve this. Something I have been able to document within my PPD file for my own personal development. I decided that I would use minimal images on each page to create maximum impact in telling my story to the reader, and used descriptive annotation to simply highlight my ideas using single words to achieve this and think this works really successfully. I decided that I would source my fabrics looking in particular to vintage tablecloths, as these would provide me the suitable scale of fabric to make my garments from the same piece of fabric. I sourced these fabrics from charity shops and from eBay which to my surprise was a very simple and effective way to source these materials that I didn’t have available on my doorstep. In the manufacturing stage of this module I think this also turned out very successful. I was able to complete my 5 garments allowing a few weeks before hand in, which is a great improvement in my time keeping, as usually this would be something I would be doing until the very last minute. I think if I was too improve on anything from this module it would be too re-consider the specific fabrics I used when creating my garments. But also to consider the garments as part of a collection rather than individual pieces so that in future, I can create a collection with fluidity and a clear theme within my final outcome.


Placement..... the big wide world

Placement module

For this module I need too:

  • Analyse the company? Background information, where does the company sit in the Market?  Who runs it highlights of the company etc.
  • Time management and reflective diary.
  • Evidence research and emails.
  • Development -- i.e. what have I learned tasks and problems solved.
  • Analyse and evaluate the knowledge and skills I have learned.

So after meeting with Clare Hughes our placement co-ordinator I set out too find myself a placement.

  • Joanna Feeley @ Trend Bible - after meeting Joanna at her presentation I plucked the guts to obtain her card and ask her for a placement opportunity (emailed 8th feb and 16th feb)
  • Next - I did look into the opportunity of going here Clare spoke to a friend who was a designer for the company but due too her own work commitments was unable to do anything.
  • Bebe Clothing - I attended an interview in the summer and also emailed my cv for another role with them.
  • John Lewis - application filled in but no response.
  • Officers Club - I contacted the head office obtained the details of the personal manager Kenneth Richards but unable to contact direct and no response from emails sent.



So after a lot of perseverance i finally have found a placement............







I feel like a cheshire cat grinning from ear to ear, I just never thought it would happen but I learnt my lesson and realised where there is a will there's a way. I was determined to find somewhere that would enhance the skills I need when moving into higher education or employment within fashion industry. so I'm going to be completing my placement at Trend Bible which is a great company ran by Joanna Feeley, it's a trend prediction company specialising in home interiors and kids lifestyle. I came to know about the company as Joanna facilitated a talk and presentation at college, which was a chance for us too learn about other options in the fashion industry apart from the obvious design, marketing etc. It was interesting that a lot of my own personal ambition as to what I wanted to achieve related to that of trend prediction, so this could also be another route for me to pursue and investigate further. I felt the presentation Joanna provided was simple and informative and she also gave us the opportunity too look at examples of her companies work to see how the whole process comes together......

first day 23rd February

So today is my first day of placement I can't decide quite how I feel.....excited/scared......nervous all I know is I have butterflies in my stomach as if it's the first day at school. I walked into the office to a room full of people as it seemed although there were only 3 people there Alice, Joanna's creative assistant greeted me and showed me around. Next too arrive was Naomi trend bibles freelance fabric coordinator and stylist, and of course Jo herself. Once the introductions had been made it was straight onto business. Monday morning meeting to discuss the trends for home and kids A/W 2013, I of course for a while didn't have a clue but soon cottoned on to the direction the themes and the general gist of the trend books.

I set off to work with Naomi, cutting samples of all the fabrics to compile a fabric file for the book, once this has been created it was back to the table to discuss which trends fitted what fabrics.......and I can say it's not all as easy as it sounds.



Tool too do the job.......



Once we had compiled the fabrics for each theme it was time to commence the task to cut each fabric out. I decided to start of with the papers as this would be the quickest, which I can safely say was definitely the easiest part by far. I worked out a method so to be able to do it as quickly and efficiently as possible which of course involved calculating how many I could cut out.

maths, maths, maths........

After calculating the maths for each one I got into the momentum of it and well the papers where finished in no time. I can safely say that my hand hurt and before I even attempted to start the fabrics, I would need to mention a new pair of scissors would be needed or I was in fear my hands may drop of.

The ups and downs........

Evaluation

AD206 Styling Project

This module has given me the chance to experiment and produce a piece of work to enhance my future opportunities to progress onto full degree level. I decided to use this module to create a promotional piece of work to visually present my abilities for interview.
     I was allocated Calum Knight as my photographer, who I met with initially to discuss my thoughts and ideas on how I wanted the photos too look. The research that I had collated helped me to visually express the direction and style of photos I was looking for. As a designer I always aim to create very simple, elegant pieces and wanted this to also reflect in the style of images that were produced. I wanted to shoot in studio on a plain background so not too distract from the garments. I had considered possible locations but after looking at my research I decided that in studio I would have more flexibility to achieve the photos I wanted.
Calum was great at providing me with ideas from his professional view, from what lighting was going to work best, which backgrounds and any props that may be appropriate. We negotiated the most effective lighting and colour of background for each shoot. I was able to communicate with Calum really well and he was very efficient in advising me of his thoughts and communicating with me via text messages and phone calls.
When looking for models Calum had a lot of contacts that would be suitable to model as he specialises in fashion photography. Calum had asked a friend to model for my Lolita dress, she wasn’t exactly what I was looking for but I knew that it was a compromise that I would have to make as I couldn’t find a model myself who would best suit the look I wanted to create. On the day of the shoot unfortunately the girl was taken into hospital and I was left with everything prepared but no model to wear the dress. This is when I think my true personality came into place, as I acted under pressure. On my way into college I had spotted a beautiful Asian girl sitting in the entrance with her mum thinking to myself she would be the perfect model to wear my dress. As soon as I found out the model wasn’t turning up I ran out to the entrance with Calum to see what he thought and I daringly approached her to ask if she would be available for a few hours to model.  She so kindly said yes and it turned out she was interviewing for FDA Fashion so it gave her the opportunity to find out a little of what we do and what the course entailed. Looking back on this Asia was probably the best person I could have used for the shoot she fitted the dress perfectly, and fitted the look I wanted to achieve.      
Within my research file all of the images I had collected where very girly poses and portraying a very child like feel, images of young woman portraying their child like selves. I had the help of a fellow student to complete the hair and makeup, as this is not something I am good at. I wanted to create a very girly look, by doing the hair into a plait and a natural look makeup with pink rosy cheeks. Whilst doing the shoot we experimented with some of the poses some of which worked and some that didn’t suit the style of my dress.
For my second shoot I was photographing my dress from AD208, on the day of the shoot unfortunately Calum was unwell and not able to do the shoot, but he very kindly organised another photographer to complete the shoot. In a short time I had to get together with James and discuss my thoughts, as to how I wanted the photos too look. This made me realise that I have the ability to work well under pressure. For this shoot I had already organised my own model one of the first year students Carmel and asked a fellow student to help with the hair and makeup the look for this shoot was to have an up hair do that had a quite messy look, and very minimalistic makeup so that the focus would be the dress. I had brought along a range of images form my research file so that I could show both the model and James the various poses I wanted to experiment with to best compliment the dress. I had decided that because of the style of the dress I wanted the dress to be shot mainly from the back, to show the design features on the back of the dress. Once the shoot was finished, I quickly ran through the images to pick out my favourite images from the shoot as nearly 200 photos had been taken. After the shoot James provided me with copies of the images I had picked from the shoot on disc for me too edit. I did find however after this I was unable to contact him with any further queries I had which was quite unprofessional as I needed further copies of the dress, so I had to just work with the images I had.
When experimenting with the editing of the photographs I had the opportunity to pick up new skills and knowledge I needed to produce a high quality level of work. I experimented with the images playing with proportion, scale, and the vast amount of filters, blending modes and other techniques available. Once I had sampled these different techniques I decided that I wanted too keep the images very simply edited, I used a technique that enhanced the look of the models skin and played around with the contrast, vibrancy and brightness in the images to add warmth and enhance the colour in the garments, which I think works incredibly well and looks very professional.
Because I wanted to take this opportunity to enhance my portfolio I thought about how I could achieve a piece of work that would show my abilities and as a unique selling point for my university interview for BA Honours Fashion Marketing.  
Whilst on my placement I was introduced to using another application called In Design which I was made aware is another vital piece of software used in industry. I was briefly shown how to use this and took it upon myself to produce a promotional booklet. I used this to communicate the overall process communicating, and advertising my research ideas, along with the final outcomes for both my Lolita dress and Anh Mao garments together effectively as these two projects where both linked with industry.
I think I overall produced a really strong level of work and really enjoyed being able to experiment and edit the photographs to suit my own style. The images I choose I feel reflect my garment at there best, and the format I produced them in also, I feel works really well as more than just a photograph, but a piece of work that reflects who I am as a designer and to showcase my style of work. But most importantly  fit for purpose.
I was able to improve on my skills and gain more experience when using Photoshop to develop and enhance my work in the future, which I know will stand me in good stead for my future education. This will be something I already have experience in doing so I can further develop any future works to a higher level. This project also gave me the opportunity to work with others successfully, and improve upon the skills I will need in industry to communicate with other people in other fields, and gain knowledge in there specialism. As part of my short term goals I plan to progress to complete a full degree in fashion marketing and the methods I have used on this project are something I can expand upon when looking at other marketing styles. 

Wow !!!!!

So from the images I had, I now had the task too pick out the best images and edit these. I did play around with different techniques, filters and enhancements to improve the images overall. But also too create a final outcome suitable for my portfolio and certainly work im proud of.


And here they are........what can I say wow !!!!


Final Image 1
Final Image 2

Final Image 3

Final Image 4





These are the collection of images I have produced using my chosen technique. I decided that I didn’t want to create too much on my images and simply wanted to clean them up, and enhance the colour and light as the original image were very dark. Too do this I altered the brightness and contrast on the images, to improve the colour and warmth of the garment and skintone. I then applied a blur filter on a duplicate image and by applying the original image over this I was able to rub away the original image only on the skin areas, to reveal the blurred image, this created a smoother airbrushed effect to the skin but also helps re-gain focus onto the garment when looking at the images. I have also produced surplus images over and above the 4 images I have picked for my final outcome to include within the promotional booklet I will create, to show the details and close up images opposed to the larger images I will predominantly use.

AD206 Photoshoot and styling



Photoshoot / Styling Project


This module entails working alongside a photographer to produce and create work suitable to be included in my portfolio for interview.


Points I need to consider are:


  • Do I use Lolita and Anh Mao dresses.
  • Think about styling, in studio/ location???
  • Presentation and choice of photos.


First of all I need to present my ideas i.e. what set or what initial ideas I have for location if any to my photographer discussing any thoughts or suggestions or professional opinions they may have to contribute. I may want too look at renaissance imagery and paintings which may influence or spark an idea as to how I want to shoot my garments. Not only do I need to consider this but the hair, makeup, jewellery and general styling of the garments.


I've started by collecting a range of images that inspire me maybe a minimum of 10-20 ideas and i have fully annotated my thoughts.

I also need to include images within my written evaluation discussing who i am, how I like to design evidence my abilities and strenghths and overall evaluate working alongside my photographer, so will need to document the whole process so that I am able to do this.

I chose to work with one of the FdA Photographer's Calum and I initially met with him on 24th February, and discussed the possibilities. I decided too use both my Anh Mao dress and Lolita to create a strong visual representaion of my work for interview.
At this meeting we planned to do the shoots on the following dates:

  • Complete my first shoot for Lolita dress 4th March.
  • Complete Anh Mao photoshoot 10th March.
Below are some images that I have looked at and collected so far: 

This is a caption from the film Atonement and I think works really well to compliment the style of this backless dress.

These images of Kate Winslet by Mario Testino for Vogue magazine are a great example of how best to photograph a backless dress as a feature. The powerful, and strong feel portrayed in these images works really well in a very feminine way. These are two poses I can experiment with in my own shoot to see if I can create the same effect.

I have considered styling and the style of makeup I wish to have and I think I want to go for a very simple look with emphasis to the eyes natural but so the eye is drawn in to the models face.

Here I have looked at one of my favourite artists Sir Lawrence Alma-Tadema, I love the natural and calm effect portrayed in his art the poses are always very simple, which is something I really enjoy.
This is another image I found on Deviant Art, I love the composition and set up of this image it’s very calm and thoughtful and very childlike. I think the subtle use of colour work really well.

This image reflects a very innocent and childlike reflection, the cutesy pos and set up of the image works well for the style of the garment this company sells, and tells its story effectively.

The look I want to portray in my images for my 'Princess Lolita' dress is a very simple, childlike innocent image. I love the pose used in this photograph the way her feet are positioned turned in together and the accessories also work well collectively.

day of hand in and disaster strikes........

AD203 --- hand in 25th January


All I can say at this point is how dare the printers not work on the day of hand in !!! Or should I say, I should have never left it too the last minute. This certainly being the one thing I will never do again, as while waiting for the 10th attempt of printing your work out, is the most stressful thing I've ever done and it's practically brought me out in tears from the sheer frustration.

After the tears and tantrums I can firmly say I have a Definate number of lessons learned. That I can hopefully take forward. As I rushed through the work I could have applied more thoughts to the presentation and minor spelling mistakes that could have been avoided if I'd spent more time on the work.




Well it's done dusted and I can say I'm am extremely proud of myself and in amazement. I usually try too steer clear of using CAD and Illustrator but I don't know why as it's now firmly placed within my strengths as I didn't realise how easy it is too produce such high quality work.

I must say I did use a lot of references the most helpful being a booked called technical drawing for fashion by Basis Szkutnicka, which is a must have buy I think for any student embarking on learning new things, and the basics about specification/technical drawings in illustrator.



AD202-----CAD


I firmly believe that in CAD you can be taught the basics, but it takes experimenting and practice too improve yourself. Each piece of work I do I can see a clear improvement however small it may be.

To back up this module I had to produce a research and essay to show the progression of computer aided design within the industry.

Previously in 1st year we where introduced to the world of computer aided design and the simple techniques needed to function. I would say that I can now confidently use these programs to enhance my work with ease.

I will fully admit that this project was started 72 hours before hand in on Saturday 22nd of January not intentionally. I just seem to put things off until the pressure is on and some how feel like I get a boost by working under pressure, something I can safely say I need to learn to get out of the habit of.


I have already drawn up and scanned in my illustrations so now it is the task to use illustrator to produce a enhanced CAD illustration to support what I have learned.


Here I have created a more detailed illustration using Illustrator.






Here I have used layers to allow me to create this illustration and so I can also identify each part.



Here I have created an illustration identifying the details in my design.